Vài nét về châu Thạch Lâm, tỉnh Cao Bằng thế kỷ XIX

VAI ]W:T V E C | I A U T H A C H L A M . y v ^ TIMI CAO BA]\G THE KV XIX NGUYSN THI HAI* Trong lich sfl, chau Thach Lam ludn ddng vai trd la trung tam cua tinh Cao Bing. Chau Thach Lam ddi Ly - TrIn la chau Thai Nguyen, den cuo'i the ky XV mdi chfnh thflc mang ten la chau Thach Lam. Nam 1834, Minh Mgnh ddi chau Thach Lam lam huyen, ngay nam sau tach thanh hai huygn Thach Lam, Thach An thugc phu Hda An (1). Nam 1874, Tfl Dflc tach mgt so' tdng xa cua hai huyen Thach Lam, Thach An, lap them huyen Nguyen Binh. Cudi the ky XIX, thflc dan Phap ddi huyen thanh chau, tach tdng Phuc Hda (chau Thach An) sap nhap vdi tdng Cach Linh (chau Quang Uyen) lap thanh chau Phuc Hda, ddng thdi tach cac tdng Phfl Dung, Trung An, Ha Quang thugc chau Thach Lam, sap nhap vdi tdng Thdng Nong (chau Nguyen Binh) thanh lap chau Ha Quang (nam 1893) (2). Nhfl vay, chau Thach Lam trong the ky XIX da hi chia tach nhieu Iin, nhflng cd ban pham •vi chau Thach Lam trfldc nam 1834 vin cdn dfldc duy tri trong dia gidi cua cac chau Thach Lam, Thach An, Ha Quang, Nguyen Binh sau dd, va nd tfldng flng vdi dia gidi hanh chfnh cua cac huyen Hda An, Thach An, Thdng Ndng, thi xa Cao Bing, Nguyen Binh, Ha Quang va mgt phin huyen Tra Linh, Phuc Hda ngay nay. Chau Thach Lam la viing dit sinh sdng lau ddi va hen tuc cua nhdm cfl dan thugc ngfl he Tay - Thai, chu yeu la tgc ngfldi Tay. Trai qua qua tiinh hch sfl, viing dit Thach Lam tiep nhan them ddng ngfldi Kinh tfl dfldi xudi len, ddng ngfldi Hoa, Niing, Dao... d Trung Qud'c sang. Sfl hda hdp ve cfl dan da bien chau Thach Lam thanh trung tam giao thoa va tiep bien van hda xudi ngfldc dien hinh d khu vflc Ddng Bic. 1. To chife chinh tr i - xa hoi To chflc xa hgi truyen tho'ng cao hdn ban d vflng cac tgc ngfldi ngdn ngfl Tay - Thai la mfldng. Mudng ra ddi xua't phat tfl nhu elu t i t yeu ciia cac dieu kien sin xuit va tfl qua trinh lich sfl phat trien xa hgi cua cac tgc ngfldi nay. Qua trinh thiet lap mfldng gin hen vdi qua trinh xac lap quyen thd'ng tri ban mfldng cua cac tfl trfldng, thu Hnh. Hg la ngfldi cd cong dlu trong viec khai pha dlt dai, thanh lap ban mfldng nen hg dfldc quyen dieu khien mgi cong ThS. TrUdng Dai hgc Su pham Thai Nguyen 46 Rghien curu Ljeh sJr. s6 4.2Q1Q viec chung, trd thanh ngUdi difng dlu, ddng vai trd la thu Knh bg lac va dUdc quyen the tap de dam bao quyen tho'ng tri cua ddng hg. Tren cd sd phat trien cua che do rugng di t cong, cac t ing Idp tho'ng tri gianh va nim quyen phan phdi rugng dit, trd thanh chua da't d dia phUdng. Uy quyen cua hg phu thugc vao quy mo cua mUdng rgng hay hgp, cac mUdng canh nhau cd sU lg thugc vao nhau, mUdng nhd lg thugc mUdng ldn, tho tfl the life yeu th in phuc tho tfl the life manh. Dieu dd tao thanh hai loai chua di t chu yeu: mgt la Quan chua (Chua cong) cai quan mgt chau mfldng tfldng dfldng vdi mgt chau; hai la Quing mfldng cai quan mgt •vung tfldng dUdng vdi mgt tdng hoac mgt so' xa. Trong mdi quan he vdi trieu dinh phong kien, cac chua mUdng •vfla mang tfnh dgc lap, •vfla lg thugc vi hg •vfla la chu mfldng, vfla la "chflc sic" cua trieu dinh, hang nam phai trieu cong. O ca'p chau, dflng diu la mgt thd tfl dia phfldng cd the liic ldn, dUdc trieu dinh phong la phien thin. Theo Dgi Nam nhdt thd'ng chi. ddi Le Hdng Dflc chau Thach Lam do "phien th in hg Be the tap; diu ddi Gia Long vin theo nhfl the" (3). Sach Cao Bdng ky lUdc dfldc viet vao nam Thieu Tri thfl 5 (nam 1845) cung khing dinh ring: "Ban trieu diu nhflng nam Gia Long, ten hieu cac phu chau hay cdn theo ten cu, cac viec dan sfl vln do tho ti sai dat. Luc a'y, trieu dinh mdi dflng, nen dflng "bit tri" de ma cai tri, nhflng cung chi la kimi ma thoi" (4). Nhfl vay, cho den thdi Gia Long, nha nfldc mdi chi dat bg may cai tri cua minh den cip tra'n, cdn tfl ca'p chau trd xuo'ng vin do cac tho tfl dia phfldng cai quan. Dflng diu chau luc nay la phien th in hg Be, nam quyen tdi cao ve hanh phap, tfl phap va quan sU. Cd the, mo hinh cai quan chau Thach Lam cua hg Be se gin gidrig vdi mo hinh cua hg Nong d chau Bao Lac ma PGS.TS Dam Thi Uyen da de cap den trong luan an tien si sfl hgc nam 2000 (5). Dflng diu chau la Quan chua, giup viec cho Quan chua la Tam quan (phu trach mat hanh chfnh, ngi tri, ngoai giao, truyen Ignh cua Quan chua den cac chflc dich khac, dfldc quyen thay tri chau khi ving mat), Chiu (phu trach cong vigc cu the tfl san xuit den le tet, coi gifl kho va mgt thfl ky cho tri chau), Tuin tdng (phu trach ve quan sfl), Quan chieu (theo doi cong •vigc cua cac dan tgc khong phai ngfldi Tay), ngoai ra cdn co td chflc quan dgi va mo then. Song, dieu dd khong h i n da dung vdi chau Thach Lam •vi day vo'n la trung tam, ndi dat thu phu cua tra'n Ii Cao Bing tfl r i t sdm. Ngay tfl the ky IX, Cao Bien da cho xay diing thanh Na Lfl (nay thugc xa Hoang Tung, huyen Hda An) va thanh Phuc Hda (xa Hda Thu^n, huyen Phuc Hda), dfla ndi day trd thanh tien ddn chd'ng lai quan Nam Chieu (6). Dac biet, tfl cudi the ky XVI den gifla the ky XVII, sau khi th i t thfl d Kinh thanh Thang Long, nha Mac da len Cao Bing, xay dflng chi'nh quyen tfl tri, dat kinh do d Cao Binh - Na Lfl (7) (nay thugc hai xa Hflng Dao va Hoang Tung, huyen Hda An). Nha Mac da thi hanh nhieu chfnh sach phat trien kinh te, tang cfldng giao lflu buon ban vdi Trung Qud'c... Sfl phat trien cua nen kinh te hang hda da iam cho the Iflc cua thd ty d chau Thach Lam din hi thu hgp, thiet che chfnh tri xa hgi truyen tho'ng quing mfldng khong cdn dieu kien tdn tai nhfl d Bao Lac, va mo hinh quan ly mang tfnh thd'ng nha't cua nha nfldc phong kien d in chiem flu the. Khi nha Mac hi tha't bai hoan toan vao nam 1677, chfnh quyen Le - Trinh tie'p tuc de cac thd tfl the tap va duy tri quan tri dia phfldng ma ta tha'y cho den dlu trieu Nguyen. Vai n ^ ve chau Thach Lam... 47 Sfl tien bg cua Gia Long so vdi cac trieu dai trfldc la •viec td chflc dieu tra lap sd dinh, sd dien de quan ly rugng d i t va so'dinh trong cac lang xa mgt each tho'ng n h i t va chat che. Cong ^ e c nay khong chi dfldc tien hanh d •vflng ddng bing ma cdn dfldc thiic hign nghiem chinh d •viing mien niii. Hi§n nay, Trung tam Lflu trfl Qudc gia I cdn lflu 97 dia ba cua chau Thach Lam nien dai Gia Long 4 (nam 1805). Cac vua ddi sau tren cd sd dd tien hanh chinh sfla, bd sung va lap lai dia ba d Cao Bing cho dly du hdn, chu yeu la vao nam Minh Menh 13 (1832), Mmh Menh 21 (1840), cd mgt ft dia ba mang nien dai Thieu Tri 5 (1844), Tfl Dflc 6 (1852). Dieu dd chflng td nha Nguyin da b i t diu cd chfnh sach n h i m can thiep tnic tiep vao viec quan ly lang ban •vflng mien niii. Nam 1820, Minh Menh ke tuc sfl nghiep cua Gia Long. Ong d i n tang cfldng sfl kiem soat cua chfnh quyen t rung fldng tdi ngi bg cac tgc ngfldi thieu so' b i n g each tflng bfldc xoa bd che do thd quan, thflc hign bien phap: Ngfldi Kinh va ngUdi Thd cflng cai tri. Nam 1829, Minh Menh bai bd lg thd ty the tap d cac t r i n Bic thanh ndi chung va Thach Lam ndi rieng, dat chflc Thd tri chau, Tri huyen, Huyen thfla, Lai muc "khdng cfl thd ty, hao muc, cfl trong hat ai la ngfldi cd thanh hem, tai nang, c ln can vo'n dugc dan tin phuc thi chgn cfl tau len, khong dfldc theo trfldc xflng la tap quan" (8). Nam 1834, Mmh Menh ddi chau Thach Lam thanh huyen va den thang 3 nam 1835, b i t d l u dat chflc lflu quan d day. Vua du r ing: 'Tluyen, chau nao thd quan cdn khuyet thi chgn l iy mgt •vien lflu quan bo sung vao; cdn huyen, chau nao cd tho tri huyen, thd tri chau, thd huyen thfla rdi thi deu lflu lai d nguyen chflc, b i t t i t phai ddi bd, chi mdi ndi dat them mgt chflc lflu quan, bd lam tri huyen, tri chau, cdn nguyen tho quan thi deu cho lflu quan hiep ddng lam •vigc" (9). Nhfl vay, vdi chinh sach khon kheo "dat lflu quan xen vdi tho quan de rang huge gifl gin I in nhau", Minh Menh da ap dat mo hinh quan ly mang tfnh tho'ng n h i t len •viing bien •vien xa xoi, thu hep quyen life cua cac thd tfl dia phfldng. Chfla mgt nha vua nao trfldc Minh Menh ap dung bien phap nay. Chinh sach lflu quan da gay ra sfl b i t binh cua cac thd ty cd the Iflc lau ddi d dia phUdng, tieu bieu nhu thd ty Nong Van Van d Bao Lac. Mac dfl trieu dinh da dap t i t cugc khdi nghia cua Nong Van Van nhflng tren thflc te, cac Thd ty v i n n i m quyen life. Chinh sach "lflu quan" cua Minh Menh cdn gap phai sfl chd'ng ddi cua cac quan lai ngfldi Kinh. Su khac biet ve ngdn ngfl, phong tuc va khf hau khic nghiet, da iam cho quan lai ngUdi Kinh - nhiing ngUdi dang chd bd nhiem hoac dang dUdng chflc tfl ehdi khdng mud'n len. Hdn nfla, trieu dinh d xa khdng the bao ve nhan dan, chd'ng lai cac vu roi loan va ngan chan quan Trung Quoc t ran vao nhfl cac thd tfl dia phfldng. Do dd, nhflng •vua ke vi Minh Menh da cho lap lai tinh trang cu b ing each dfla thd ty vao trong bg may bao ve va cai tri •vflng bien cfldng (10). Vigc cai tri dan cU •vflng bien •vien giao cac nha c im quyen theo tap quan dia phUdng la giai phap de •vfla td'n ft chi phi, vfla dn dinh tinh hinh chinh tri, •vfla bao ve dflgc ldi fch kinh te cua qud'c gia. Ban than chinh quyen thugc dia Ddng Dfldng sau nay ciing theo nha Nguyen, duy tri sfl tdn tai cua cac quan lai dia phfldng, n h i t la ddng doi thd ty trong viec cai quan khu vflc bien gidi phfa Bic. Md hinh cai tri c ip chau den c ip xa d khu •vflc chau Thach Lam cho tdi d l u thdi Nguyen la mgt thiet che xa hgi chfnh tri t ruyen tho'ng cua cac thd tfl dia phfldng nhUng nd khong tdn ta i dgc lap ma g i n bd chat che, chiu sU chi pho'i cua chfnh quyen phong kien. Dien hinh la viec phan chia ddn •vi hanh chfnh, ap dat he thdng xa 4S Rghien ciiru Ljeh sit. s6 4.2Q10 thon. Hign nay, chung ta chUa biet chfnh xac khi nao trieu dinh trung Udng dat he tho'ng quan ly hanh chfnh cip xa thon len cac ban, mUdng d Thach Lam, chi biet trong Dii dia chi cua Nguyen Trai ch^p r ing "chau Thach Lam cd 174 xa, 2 thon, 1 giap" (11). Den thdi Nguyen, can cfl vao ten dia ba hien cd d ca hai thdi diem Gia Long, Minh Menh va cudii Ten lang xd Viet Nam nda ddu the ky XIX (thugc cdc tinh tii Hd Tinh trd ra) (12), chung ta cd the tho'ng ke tfldng doi dly du ddn vi hanh chfnh ca'p cd sd d chau Thach Lam nhU bang 1. Cuo'i the ky XIX, theo Dong Khdnh dia dii chi (13), cac ddn vi hanh chfnh cip cd sd d chau Thach Lam cu thay ddi nhU bang 2. can cfl vao hai bang tho'ng ke tren, chung ta nhan tha'y dfldi thdi Nguyen, ddn vi hanh chfnh cudi cflng cua chau Thach Lam chu yeu la ca'p xa (chiem 89,55% hoac 74,7%). Dieu dang chu y d day la sfl xuit hien cua mgt sd' ddn •vi hanh chfnh mang ten phd, phfldng (pho' Cao Binh, Lfldng Ma, Muc Ma va phfldng Na Lfl vao dlu the ky XIX va 13 phd vao cudi the ky XIX la An Binh (Cao Binh cu), Muc Ma, Lfldng Ma, Tfl Chieng (Nfldc Hai hien nay), Tmh. Oa, Tra Linh, An Lai, Trung Thing, Bing Lau, Nam Nang, Ang Md, Phu Bac, Na Lan). Phd va phfldng la ddn •vi hanh chfnh dfldc Bang 1: Ddn vi hanh chinh cap cd sd chau Thach Lam nijfa dau the ky XK STT 1 2 3 4 5 6 Ddn vi h a n h c h i n h cap cof sd Xa Thon Phd PhUdng Trai Dgng Tong cong So lifo(ng 120 8 3 1 1 1 134 Ty le % 89,55 5,97 2,23 0,75 0,75 0,75 100 Bang 2: Cac ddn vi hanh chinh cap cd sd chau Thach Lam cuoi the ky XIX STT 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Dofn vi h a n h c h i n h cap ctf sdf Xa Thon Pho PhUdng Trai Dgng Ap Bang Trang Tong cong So liigfng 136 8 13 0 16 5 1 2 1 182 Ty le % 74,7 4,4 7,1 0 8,8 2,7 0,6 1,1 0,6 100 Vai n^t vd chau Thach Lam... 49 dat cho nhflng khu dan cfl l i y hoat dgng san x u i t va t rao ddi hang hda iam nghe sd'ng chfnh. H l u het cac pho' cfla Thach Lam deu n i m dgc bien gidi Viet - Trung cho phdp chung ta doan dinh r ing , thdi Nguyen, chau Thach Lam la mgt trdng nhflng t rung tam kinh te hang hda, trao ddi budn ban pha t t r ien gifla nfldc ta vdi nha Thanh t ren dfldng bg. Phd' d day cd the dfldc phien am tfl "Phjd" trong tieng Tay dflng de chi ndi giao lflu buon ban mang tfnh ngoai thfldng. Mgt so' phd', phudng hinh thanh g i n lien vdi viec ddng dd cua trieu Mac nhU phd' Cao Binh, phudng Na Lfl, hoac la t r i n t h a n h thdi Le - Trinh nhU pho' Muc Ma, LUdng Ma. Nhflng phd', phudng nay •vfla mang chflc nang kinh te, •vfla mang chflc nang hanh chfnh. So' phd' cdn lai h inh t hanh vao gifla the ky XIX, gin lien vdi cac chg, t rung tam budn ban trao ddi gifla Viet Nam va Trung Qud'c. Theo Hodng Viet nhdt thdng dU dia chi •viet vao nhflng nam d i u the ky XIX, d phd Lfldng Ma "hai ben phd' deu la nha cfla ngfldi Hoa r i t t ru mat, chd bua ban toan mat hang tfl Trung Qudc" hay phfa nam phd' Muc Ma cd chd Muc Ma, "chd ban du cac loai hang hda" (14). Lang xa Thach Lam the ky XIX d i in ra ddng thdi hai qua tr inh: nong thon hda va do thi hda. Mgt so' khu vflc vo'n dfldc coi la pho', phudng bi ndng thdn hda trd thanh xa, tieu bieu n h i t la phUdng Na Lfl. Na Lfl vdn la mgt p h i n cua kinh do nha Mac, khi m i t vai trd lich sfl, kinh te hang hda d day d i n tan Iui. Theo dia ba phfldng Na Lfl tai hai thdi diem Gia Long (1805) va Minh Menh (1840), sd chu phu canh giam tfl 51,52% xudng 22,9%. Chu phu canh giam ddng nghia vdi •vigc quan he mua ban rugng d i t giam, cfl dan ban dia khdng lam nghe khac (thu cdng nghiep, budn ban.. .) ma gan chat vdi ddng rugng. Dieu dd cho t h i y phfldng Na Lfl b i t d i u nong thdn hda trd lai, den thdi Ddng Khanh, nd hoan toan trd thanh mgt ddn vi hanh chfnh san x u i t nong nghiep t h u I n tuy va ddi lai la xa Na Lfl. Trong khi dd, so' Iflgng pho' thdi Ddng Khanh lai tang len dot bien so vdi hdi d i u the ky, x u i t h ien them 10 phd mdi, dfl chfla phai la phd' theo dung nghia, nhflng chflng td mgt so' •vflng nhd cd •vi trf dia ly thuan ldi cho phat tr ien thfldng nghiep da d i n dd thi hda. Den d l u the ky XX, phd khdng cdn tdn tai la mgt ddn •vi hanh chfnh c ip cd sd dgc lap ngang hang vdi xa nhfl trUdc ma triic thugc xa. Vf du xa An Lai, tdng An Lai, phu Hda An cd 16 ban trong dd cd mgt pho'. Quy mo phd' da thu nhd, trd thanh mgt bg phan cua xa. He thd'ng phd' cua chau Thach Lam den day khdng cdn nfla ma chi cdn duy n h i t phd'An Lai dflgc ke trong Dia danh vd tdi lieu liiu trd vi lang xd Bac Ky (15). Nhfl vay, cudi the ky XIX d l u XX, boat dgng budn ban d Thach Lam da sa sut, kdo theo sfl ndng thon hda trd lai cua mgt sd •vflng. Ben canh cac ddn •vi hanh chfnh tren, d Thach Lam cdn x u i t hien trai, dgng, i p , trang, bang.. . Day la ten ggi lang ban cua cac tgc ngfldi Nung, Dao, Hoa, Mdng... Nhflng lang ban nay cd the mdi dfldc hinh thanh d nhflng ndi giap gianh gifla cac xa, chfla dflgc sap nhap vao xa nao, hoac dfldc chfnh quyen t rung fldng gifl nguyen khi td chflc hanh chfnh va tfnh dd la mgt ddn •vi thu thue gio'ng nhfl xa, thon. Sfl tdn tai song song nhieu ten ggi cua ddn vi hanh chfnh c ip cd sd thdi Nguyin da chflng td r i n g nha nfldc tuy cd g ing vdi tay xudng cac lang xa, n i m l i y lang ban d khu •vflc mien nui nhflng v l n tdn trgng truyen thdng va tap quan lau ddi d dia phfldng. Thdi Gia Long, dflng d i u xa v i n la xa trfldng va do dan dia phfldng tfl b lu . Nam 50 Rghien curu Lich sir. s6 4.2Q10 1828, Minh Menh da thflc hien cugc cai td bg may quan ly lang xa: lap ly trfldng thay cho xa trfldng, mdi xa chi cd mgt ly trfldng va tfly theo quy mo lang xa neu so' dinh tfl 50 den 149 thi dat them mgt phd ly, t ren 150 dinh thi dat them 2 phd ly. Ly trfldng va phd ly phai chgn trong so' nhflng ngfldi "vat liic c l n can", phai do dan lang b i u ra, dugc phu huyen xdt ky lai va bam len t r i n de c ip van b ing , mgc tr ien (16). Cugc cai to nay dugc tien h a n h tr iet de d khu vUc phfa Bic , ke ca d Thach Lam. Qua khao sat 22 dia ba Minh Menh cua Thach Lam cho biet chflc ly trfldng da hoan toan thay the xa trudng, mdi xa chi cd mgt ly trUdng va cac chflc nhfl hfldng muc, s i c muc, ta ba, cai tong, khdng t h i y x u i t hien phd ly. Hai t i m bia d Ngfldm Cai I, thugc xa Dai Lai, tdng Tinh Oa (nay la xa Nam T u i n , huyen Hda An) dfldc lap nam Thanh Thai 4 (1892) ndi ve viec hgp ban xay t hanh da, tfnh toan va quyen gdp tien cdng thd cua cac chflc s ic dia phudng cho biet ten mgt so' chflc trong xa nhu ly trUdng, hUdng muc, doan trUdng, ba hg, thd hao, s i c muc gia vien (17). NhU vay, bg may cai tri c i p xa tdn tai song song bg may quan ly cua chflc dich nha nfldc va bg may tii quan cua lang ban. Dai dien cho bg may quan ly lang xa la S ic muc, dUdc quyen diem chf vao dia ba cflng vdi chflc dich (xa trfldng/thdn trfldng/ phfldng trfldng/ ly trfldng). Quyen life cua thd hao tuy bi thu hgp nhflng t ren thflc te, hg v i n la nhflng ngfldi cd quyen quyet dinh cdng •viec chung cua lang xa. Trong td chflc lang ban, Muc lao ddng vai trd quan trgng trong cac cong viec chung. Bia den Vua Le d phfldng Na Lfl lap nam Gia Long thfl 12 (1813) cho t h i y chi cd Phfldng trfldng va cac Muc lao mdi dfldc quyen quyet dinh ve •viec lap hau t h a n (18). Hien nay, d xa Hoang Tung (phfldng Na Lfl cu) v l n cdn khu rugng ma n h a n dan ggi la rugng Ong lao. Hoa ldi cua rugng nay diidc dflng de hgi lao an ud'ng d den •vua Le trong nhflng ngay I i tet. Bia h a u lap nam Thanh Thai thfl 5 (1893) d chua P h d Cu (thugc phd Muc Ma xfla) cho tha'y Muc lao v?. mgt sd chflc dich cu nhu Ciiu giap trUdng, Ciiu phdtrudng. . . n i m trong bg may tU quan, cd vai trd quan trgng trong cdng viec cua pho' (19). Ve cd ban, tfnh tU tr j cua lang xa v i n dUdc bao toan trUdc he thd'ng h a n h chfnh do nha nUdc ap dat xuo'ng. NhUng chung ta cung c l n phai thfla n h a n r i n g , nha Nguyen, tfl sau cai each cua Minh Menh da thiet lap dfldc mgt bg may quan ly kha chat che d Thach Lam tfl ca'p chau den xa. Ngfldi Tay - Nung so'ng dinh cfl thanh cac ban lang tfldng ddi sdm. Qua viec tho'ng ke ten ban d chau Thach Lam thdi Nguyin trong Dia danh vd tdi lieu liiu trd vi lang xd Bac Ky (20), ta t h i y cac ban cd dia danh mang tien to' "Na" chiem ty le cao n h i t la 22,52%, sau dd den "Lung" chiem 16,29%. Dieu dd cho t h i y dia •vflc cfl trfl cua ban lang la nhflng ndi •vflng da't t h i p , ven song, ven sudi, t rong cac t hung liing. Dd la dieu kien tfl nhien thuEln ldi cho hoat dgng sinh hoat va san xua't cua cfl dan nong nghiep trdng lua nfldc. Do dieu kien tfl nhien va lich sfl quy dinh, cfl dan t rong cac ban, na, khau, phja d Thach Lam khong the tu cfl thanh khdi cgng ddng dan cfl dong due nhfl d mien xudi. Cd ban ldn khoang 30 den 50 ndc nha, nhflng cung cd nhflng ban nhd chi g i n chuc ndc nha. Ranh gidi gifla cac ban cd the la mgt nggn nui, mgt cay cd thu hay mgt con suo'i nhd.. . Tuy chi m a n g tfnh fldc lg nhflng dfldng r a n h gidi nay dfldc mgi ngfldi ton trgng va duy t r i tfl ddi nay sang ddi khac. Mdi ban cd quyen sd hflu, quan ly, bao ve va sfl dung d i t , rflng, rugng nfldng, ngudn nfldc cung nhfl muong thu, ta i nguyen Vai n^t ve chau Thach Lam... 51 trong pham •vi cai quan cua minh. Dflng d lu ban la trfldng ban hay cdn ggi la cdc ban. Trudng ban do dan b i u ra nhUng trUdc het ngUdi dd phai thugc ddng hg ldn, c6 uy tin, sau dd mdi la ngUdi cd tU each dao dflc td't, gidi iam an, cd kha nang dieu hanh cong •vigc. Trfldng ban ddng vai trd nhfl thu linh cua cgng ddng cfl dan, ddn do'c mgi ngfldi thflc hien nhflng quy fldc chung, phan phdi d i t canh tac, giai quyet cac vu tranh ch ip d i t dai, td chflc cac hoat dgng chung cua ban nhfl thd cung thd cdng, iam dfldng, tu sfla ngudn nfldc ... Ban d chau Thach Lam phd bien dflgc c iu thanh tfl nhflng gia dinh phu quyen thugc cac ddng hg khac nhau. Ban nhd cung cd 2 - 3 hg, ban ldn cung t ren dfldi 10 hg, nhflng ban nao cung cd 1 hoac 2 ddng hg ldn chiem flu the, cd uy tfn va anh hfldng ldn tdi cac quan he xa hgi trong ban. Do thfldng la nhflng ddng hg cd cong khai pha d i t dai, lap ban va dfldng nhien rugng d i t td't thfldng n i m trong tay hg. Vf du nhfl d Ban Chap, xa Na Lfl, tdng Ha Dam (xa Hoang Tung, huyen Hda An) ddng hg Bfli la 16n nha't, so' rugng d khu •vflc nay h l u het la cua hg Bfli, cd nhflng khu rugng ldn tdi 9 miu , chu yeu tap t rung d ndi da't td't, b i n g phing, g i n ngudn nfldc. Trong lich sfl, Thach Lam la ndi cd nhieu ddng hg ngfldi Kinh len sinh so'ng, lau d i n hda nhap vdi ngfldi Tay va tfl nhan la ngfldi Tay gd'c Kinh d Bic Ninh, Nam Dinh, Thanh Hda... Vf du gia pha ddng hg Hoang d Lam Sdn, Hdng Viet ghi ro "ngay xfla td quan d lang Gia Mieu trang, thugc huyen Td'ng Sdn, phu Ha Trung, t r i n Thanh Hoa... Hai vi tfldng hg Hoang phung menh vua Le len Cao B i n g danh dgp nha Mac; danh t h i n g dfldc vua Le phong d i t d Phuc Tang iam thai a'p, cho l i y dan 7 xa xung quanh vung tha i a'p iam, binh dinh canh dien va phuc dich, •vinh thang tfldc Phuc Quan Cong, chflc Tdng t r i n Cao Bing" (21). Hay ddng hg Le d Na Gifldng, xa Phflc Tang cung lflu truyen ong td la Le Vinh Tai, la ngfldi Thanh Hda theo Le Ldi khdi nghia chd'ng Minh gianh t h i n g lgi, dfldc phong iam Thfla tfldng, dat phu tai B ic Ninh. Nam 1430, ong dfldc lenh theo •vua Le Thai To len danh Be Khic Thieu rdi sau dd dfldc lenh d lai tra'n gifl vflng Cao Bing. Tren hoanh phi cua ddng hg Le cdn kh i c "Nguyen tfl B ic Ninh phfl ngfl gia" (22)... Nhflng ddng hg nay da td chflc khai pha vflng d i t hoang, di dan lap thanh ban mdi. Luc ban d lu , mdi ban cd the chi cd mgt hg hoac tuygt dai da so' nhflng ngfldi cflng mgt hg sinh sd'ng. Song, qua nhflng bien dgng lich sfl nhfl sfl kien Nflng Trf Cao (the ky XI), vua Le Thai To dfla quan len danh Be Kh ic Thieu (the ky XV), nha Mac ddng do d Cao B i n g va nha Le - Trinh dem quan tieu diet nha Mac (the ky XVI - XVII), cU dan d •vflng nay ft nhieu bi xao tron. Sfl dan xen gifla cac ddng hg trong mgt ban dien ra manh me. Vf du d ban Na Lfl cd den hdn 10 ddng hg: Le, Bfli, Nguyin, Lo, Giap, Dfldng... nhflng dong n h i t va cd uy tfn nha't la hg Pham va hg Hoang. To chflc ddng hg d Thach Lam khdng manh nhfl mien xudi, nhflng vigc tap hdp cac thanh •vien trong hg thfldng dfldc td chflc deu dan vao ngay 3-3 Am lich hang nam. Mdi gia dinh cfl mgt ngfldi, lap thanh mgt doan di d i p mg td va mg trong hg, sau dd cflng nhau an udng, on lai t ruyen thdng. Ben canh mo'i lien ket ddng hg, cfl dan trong lang ban Thach Lam cdn g i n bd vdi nhau thong qua td chflc "phe" (hgi hieu), hg ban,. . . Thdng qua cae to chflc nay, hg s i n sang giflp nhau ngay cong, tien, gao, rflgu, cui... mdi khi gia dinh cd viec hieu, hy... Cac mo'i quan he than tgc va thfch tgc luon 52 Rghien curu Ljeh si^ . s6 4.2010 ching chit Iin nhau, tao thanh cdng ddng cU dan tUdng dd'i doan ket va thd'ng nha't. 2. Kinh te va van hoa Nen kinh te chu dao cua Thach Lam la ndng nghiep. Huyen thoai ve sU ra ddi cua nghe ndng lua nUdc d Thach Lam dUdc phan anh qua truyen thuyet 'Tu Ludng Quan". Truyen thuyet ke ring, Slao Cai la thuy td cua ngUdi Tay, thiy ben bd suoi cd thfl cd xanh, nhan tring an dfldc lien dem ve ca'y xudng bai bun. Sau dd, Bao Ludng nghi ra each khuay da't vdi nfldc, rdi gieo hat dd xudng thanh ma, nhd ma dem ciy. Nhflng hoat dgng dd hien nay cdn lflu lai trong nhieu dia danh cua chau Thach Lam nhfl Na Nien, Na Vai, Na Md, Na Lodng, Vd Ma,... Theo GS. Trin Qudc VUdng "nghe nong trdng lua nUdc ta ra ddi d vflng thung lung tfl Van Nam - Quy Chau den Tay Bic, Viet Bac, •vung "cai noi" eua cac dan tgc noi tieng Tay - Thai" (23). Rugng da't la cd sd dau tien cho sfl phat trien ndng nghiep. Ban diu, rugng da't la cua chung ban lang (na cua hang mfldng, dan so kin bjodc). Cung vdi sfl phat trien cua xa hgi, sd hflu tfl nhan ve rugng da't din xua't hien. Den dlu the ky XIX, sd hflu tfl nhan da hoan toan chiem Uu the d chau Thach Lam. Liy tdng Ha Dam lam vf du, can cfl vao 13 dia ba tai hai thdi diem cua mgt sd'xa, phfldng edn dfldc lflu gifl, ta thiy mfle do phan bd' rugng da't cdng tfl nhfl bang 3. Theo bang tren, sd hflu tfl d tdng Ha Dam chiem ty le r i t cao (95,23% va 91,8%), trong dd cd nhieu xa, phfldng hoan toan la tu hflu nhu Na Lfl, Kim Giap, Phuc Cd. Ty le nay cao hdn nhieu so vdi trung binh cua ea nfldc luc bay gid. Theo Si hoan tu tri luc cua Nguyin Cdng Tiep, d i t tU hflu chiem tren 80% dien tfch canh tac ca nUdc. Dieu dd cho thiy, cd sd kinh te cua cU dan trong lang ban Thach Lam khong phai la rugng da't cong ma chfnh la rugng da't thugc quyen sd hflu cua gia dinh. Tu hflu phat trien manh thfldng cho phdp chiing ta hen tfldng den sfl hflng thinh cua kinh te hang hda. Dieu dd chi dflng vdi cac lang xa d ddng bing, cdn d mien mii thi khong ddn gian nhfl the. Rugng di t tU nhieu cd the do mua ban nhUng ciing cd the do cac gia dinh tU khai pha cac thung lung, bai bdi, canh tac lau d in bien thanh sd hflu tfl nhan, nhi t la d nhflng vflng xa trung tam, dieu kien di lai khd khan. Thflc te cho tha'y, cd nhflng lung rgng nhflng thugc quyen sd hflu tfl nhan lau ddi cua 1 hoac 2 gia dinh cd cong khai pha d lu tien. VI du Lung Tan thugc xa Gia Bing, tdng Ha Dam, chau Thach Lam (nay thugc xa Minh Tam, huyen Nguyen Binh) rgng 3,5ha thugc quyen sd hflu lau ddi cua 2 gia dinh ngfldi Dao den khai pha tfl the'ky XVII - XVIII (32). Chau Thach Lam la •vung tap trung nhieu canh ddng rgng, tuy chat lfldng dit chi thugc hang 2, 3 nhflng cd ngudn nfldc tudi ddi dao, thuan ldi cho trdng trgt. Theo Ddng Khdnh dia dU chi, phu Hda An (chau Thach Lam) cd rugng da't cac hang theo sd gdc la 16484 mlu 2 sao 12 thudc, nhUng hien mdi khai khan dUdc 9787 miu 7 sao 7 thudc 5 ta'c (33). Vdi quy da't dd, Thach Lam tu lau da trd thanh vUa lua cua Cao Bing. Ngoai cay lua nUdc, ddng bao cdn trdng cac loai cay hoa mau, lam nUdng riy, khai thae cac san vat tu nhien cua rflng nhU gd, may, song, nfla... hay cac loai thiic pham thfldng ngay nhfl mang, hoa qua, na'm, rau rflng... NgUdi dan Thach Lam cdn biet iam mgt so nghe thu cong nhu trdng bong, det vai, nhugm vai, dan lat, lam mat mfa, giiy, chum vai, gach ngdi... NhUng hg chi coi dd la cac nghe phu va thUdng tranh thu lam Vai n^ ^ ve chau Thach Lam. 52 Bang 3: Tinh hinh ruong dat chau Thach Lam qua hai thcKi diem 1805 va 1840 T«n xa, plmdng m Lff (24) m Dkm (25) Kim Giap (26) Xuan An (27) VuTuy^n(28) Gia B^g (29) Phiic Co (30) Cii Son (31) T6ng Gia Long 4 (1805) Tu di^n Sd luong (mSu.sio. thudc.tic) 344.7.0.3 115.4.7.6 40.6.14.3 173.8.1.1 166.3.13.1 28.6.12.4 8.5.0.0 868.2.3.8 Tile (%) 100 85,16 100 97,57 94,87 100 100 95,23 Quan di^n Sd luong (mSu.sio. thudc.tic) 0 20.1.1.8 0 4.3.5.5 9.0.0.0 0 0 29.1.1.8 Ti le (%) 0 14,84 0 2,43 5,13 0 0 4,77 Minh M6nh 21 (1840) Tudi^n Sd luong (mSu.sao. thudc.tic) 347.1.13.3 117.47.6 40.6.14.3 175.8.1.1 28.6.12.4 115.6.0.1 825.4.3.8 Tile (%) 99,6 88,2 100 97,5 100 68,7 91,8 Quan di^n Sd luong (mSu.sJio. thudc.tic) 0.5.2.0 15.7.1.8 0 4.3.5.5 0 52.6.3.2 69.1.12.5 Ti le (%) 0,4 11,8 0 2,5 0 31,3 8,2 luc ndng nhan. San p h l m lam ra h l u nhu chi de phuc vu cho cugc sd'ng gia dinh, mang tfnh tU cung tii c ip . Ddi khi, nhflng san p h l m nay cung dfldc mang ra trao doi d cac chd. Tuy nhien cung cd mgt so' lang nghe ndi tieng nhfl det thd c im, iam chum vai d Nfldc Hai, nghe ren d Lung Chung (xa Hdng Viet)... D l u the ky XIX, he thdng chd lang mang tfnh lien vung da hinh thanh d Thach Lam. Chd hgp thee phien, cfl 5 ngay mgt phien: "Hdng Cdp tdp Hdng Lung Hdng Lung vung long Hdng Seng Hdng Seng teng Nd Gidng Nd Gidng khoang Hdng Bd Hdng Bd md td Hdng Cdp" Dich la: Nfldc Hai tiep den Nam Nhung Nam Nhung vung xuo'ng Cao Binh Cao Binh ddn Na Giang Na Giang ngang Md S i t Md s a t trd ve Nfldc Hai). Theo dd, chg Na Giang hgp ngay 1, ngay 6; chd Md S i t hgp ngay 2, ngay 7; chg Nfldc Hai hgp ngay 3, ngay 8; chd Nam Nhung hgp ngay 4, ngay 9; chd Cao Binh hgp ngay 5 ngay 10. Cae chd nay each nhau khoang hdn 10km va cfl l l n lUdt nhU vay, trong ca thang tao thanh mgt vdng khdp kin, ngUdi dan ludn cd dieu kien tham dii vao boat dgng trao ddi hang hda. Hg den chd khong chi de mua ban ma cdn de giao lUu van hda, md rgng mdi quan he va sU hieu biet cua minh. Chfnh chd lien •vflng cung da tao dieu kien cho qua tr inh hda hdp tgc ngfldi d Thach Lam ndi rieng va Cao B ing ndi chung d i in ra manh me. He thd'ng chd d Thach Lam cdn la ndi budn ban vdi Trung Qudc. Trong tdng sd 23 phd' dfldc tho'ng ke d Cao B ing vao thdi Ddng Khanh, Thach Lam cd 13 phd' (chiem 56,5%). Chflng td hoat dgng trao ddi hang hda b i n g dfldng bg gifla Viet Nam va Trung Quoc r i t phat trien va dfldc thflc hien thdng qua tuyen bien gidi dong bic , trong dd Thach Lam la mgt trgng diem. Trong cac pho' chd nay, cfl dan chu yeu la ngfldi Hoa d Trung Qud'c sang va ngfldi 54 Rghien curu Ljeh sir. s6 4.2Q1Q Kinh d dfldi xudi len buon ban. Vi du d thi t r in Nfldc Hai hien nay, cfl dan chu yeu la ngfldi Tay gdc Kinh tfl Bic Ninh, Thanh Hda, Nam Dinh... va ngfldi gdc Hoa. Hg den tap trung buon ban va sinh song d day tfl sdm nen hdi d lu the ky XIX da hinh thanh chg a'p tfl chieng Nfldc Hai (Nfldc Hai tfl chi'nh ip thi) (34). Hoac phd Lfldng Ma diu the ky XDC, "hai ben phd deu la nha cfla ngfldi Hoa r i t trfl mat... dlu pho' cd chd, vli ngay mgt phien, ngfldi Kinh, Thd, Hoa, Nflng tu tap buon ban ddng due" (35). Cfl dan Thach Lam ban cac sin phlm nong nghiep nhfl gao, trau, bd, ngfla, ga, vit, cac san phlm thu cong... va mua ve nhflng dd dflng thiet yeu nhfl dd phuc •vu cung te, le hgi,... Dieu nay the hien ro qua bai hat ddng dao cua tre em Tay: "Long liia khai lao Khai dp ckdo Long Chu Khai mu Quy Rin Khai pin Nd Gidng Khai mdc vdng Hdng Bd" Dich la: Xuo'ng thuyen di chd ban thud'c la Ban ap chao chd Long Chau Ban ldn d Que Lam Ban bun chd Na Giang Ban bfldi Hang Bd (36) Cac chd nay thu hut ra't dong ngfldi. Diu the ky XX, mgt si quan ngfldi Phap da tho'ng ke so' ngfldi den chd trong khu vflc Thach Lam nhfl sau: chd Nfldc Hai co 500 ngudi, chg Cao Binh la 800, chd Nam Nhung la 1200, chd Md Si t la 400, chg Trung Thing la 400, chd Tinh Oa la 200, chg Na Giang la 200 (37). Nhflng con sd nay xac nhan sfl phat trien cua thfldng nghiep d chau Thach Lam the ky XIX. Tren cd sd phat trien kinh te nong nghiep ket hdp vdi thu cong va thUdng nghiep, cU dan Thach Lam da xay diing cho minh mgt nen van hda rieng, mang dac trUng tgc ngUdi va vung mien. Cung nhu nhflng •vflng ngfldi Tay khac, cac ban d chau Thach Lam dfl cd lich sfl lau ddi hay mdi lap, bao gid cung cd mieu thd thd cong do ngfldi lap ban dflng len. Thd cong cua ngfldi Tay cd chflc nang gin gio'ng thanh hoang lang cua ngfldi Kinh d mien xudi. Dd la vi th in bao ve, che chd cho dan lang dfldc an cfl lac nghiep. Trfldng ban la ngfldi chiu trach nhiem phan cong cac gia dinh cham nom mieu thd cong. Vao nhflng ngay Ii tet, gia dinh nao cung den th ip hfldng, xin phfl hg cho gia dinh. Thay mat cfl dan trong ban, trfldng ban hoac ngUdi gia cd uy tfn trong ban dflng ra cung te vao dip dlu nam, le ha dien, thflgng dien... hoac khi trong lang xay ra dich benh... de ciu mong sfl an binh, thinh •vfldng cho nhan dan. Do dd, mieu thd cong thfldng gin lien vdi Ii hgi elu mfla, hgi long tdng cua dan ban. Viec thd cung tho cdng cflng vdi nhflng sinh hoat van hda tinh th in da Jang da trd thanh chit keo gin ket cgng dong cfl dan trong ban, khong phan biet ddng hg, ngfldi den trfldc hay ngfldi den sau. Chau Thach Lam dUdc coi la trung tam chfnh tri, kinh te cua tinh C?o Ping trong nhieu the ky nen ndi day sdm ti^'p nhan ddng ngUdi Kinh tfl dfldi xudi len, ddng ngfldi Hoa, Dao, Mong... tfl Trung Qudc sang. Sfl hda hdp ve cfl dan da dfla Thach Lam trd thanh mgt trung tam giao thoa, tiep bien van hda gifla cac tgc ngfldi Tay - Nflng - Hoa, Tay - Dao, Tay - Mong... va dien hinh hdn ca la Tay - Viet. Ddng ngfldi Viet tfl dfldi xudi len sinh sd'ng va dinh cfl d Thach Lam b i t d iu tfl the ky X - XI, nhflng dong nh i t la vao the ky XVI - XVII gin hen Vai n^l vi chau Thach Ldm... 55 vdi sii kien nha Mac va •viec trieu Le - Trinh mang quan dgp nha Mac. Trong Cao Bdng tgp chi nhdt tap. Be Huynh da chia ngfldi Thd (ngfldi Tay) t hanh bo'n loai la Thd ty (con chau cong t h i n trieu Le dflgc phan phong the tap cai quan d day), Phu Dao (ngfldi Tay ban dja dfldc trieu dinh phdng lam phu dao), Thd trfldc (dan Tay ban dja) va Bien Thd (ngfldi d dfldi ddng b ing hoac di viec vua, di day hgc ma tdi, dan tfl xfl den budn ban cflng con chau be toi nha Mac, nhflng ngfldi phd giup Tay Sdn an trf d day...) (38). Nhieu ddng hg Tay d •vung Thach Lam deu cd lien quan vdi hg gdc d mien xudi. Bd la cd sd quan trgng cho qua trinh giao thoa va tiep bien van hda d chau Thach Lam. Vi tieng Viet va t ieng Tay thugc hai nhdm ngdn ngfl khac nhau nen trong qua trinh cgng cfl ngfldi dan phai hgc tieng ndi cua nhau. Do dd, t inh t r ang sfl dung song ngfl, pha tieng va sfl dung phfldng ngfl vung xudi d Thach Lam da sdm phd bien, tieu bieu n h i t la vung Na Lfl (nay thugc xa Hoang Tung, huyen Hda An). Nhan dan dia phfldng v i n ggi la "Keo pha Nd Lii'. Cfl dan Na Lfl chu yeu gd'c d Nam Dinh va Thanh Hda theo Le - Trinh len dgp Mac (the ky XVII) rdi d lai, ve sau da Tay hda, dia phfldng hda theo kieu "Kinh gia hda Tho'. Hg ndi "tr" thanh "t", d i u "nga" tlianh d i u "nang" va dflng tieng Tay them vao cau tieng Viet. Vf du nhfl ndi "mdy ddt con trdu trdng xudng ben cho tao" thanh "Mdy d'dt con tdu tdng xudng sodc cho tao" (sodc (Tay) = ben (Viet)). Theo cdGS. T r i n Qude Vflgng "ddn Nd Lii nay dd Id ngUdi Tdy nhiing vdn ' dung khd nhiiu tii Viet cd' (39). Cflng vdi qua t r inh dd, chfl Nom Tay xu i t hign, g i n lien vdi vai trd cua nha Mac the ky XVI-XVII. Cac nha nghien cflu cho biet, xet theo quan he ngudn gd'c hinh thanh, cd the phan loai chfl Nom Tay thanh hai loai ldn la loai vay mfldn va loai tfl tao, trong dd loai vay mfldn cd hai trfldng hgp la vay mfldn tfl van ban Han hay Han - Viet va vay mflgn tfl van ban Ndm Vigt (40). Sfl ra ddi cua chfl Ndm Tay khdng chi xua't phat tfl nhu c iu cua nhflng tri thflc ban dia raa cdn dap flng dfldc yeu c iu cua nhiing tri thflc mien xuei len ceng tac va sinh sd'ng d day trong nhflng the ky trfldc. Thong qua hieu biet ve ngon ngfl, chfl viet, ngfldi ta b i t d l u hgc phong tuc tap quan cua nhau, hgc nhflng bai ddng dao, hat ru, eau ca ndi ve kinh nghiem san xuit, ke nhiing cau truyen cd cho nhau nghe. Hien nay, chiing ta t h iy ra't nhieu truyen cd khuyet danh cua ngfldi Viet dUde dich ra tieng Tay va ngUge lai nhU "Phgm Tdi - Ngge Hoa". "Thgch Sanh", "Liiu Binh - DUdng Le"... Dac biet co't truyen va mdtip nhan vat eiing cd nhiing ndt tfldng ddng the hien kha ro ndt nhfl truyen thuyet "Pu Ludng Qudn" cua ngfldi Tay va "Con Rong Chdu Tien" cua ngfldi Viet, hdac truyen thuyet nd t h i n Ndng Die Thai cua ngfldi Tay va truyen nd t h i n An Dfldng Vfldng cua ngfldi Vigt... Neu nhfl d ddng b i n g Bic Bg, h l u nhfl lang nao cung cd dinh chfla thi d Thach Lam, dinh chua cung x u i t hien nhflng khdng phd. bien. Chfla la ndi thd Phat, g i n lien vdi sinh hoat tin ngfldng cua ngfldi Kinh d mien xudi. Sii x u i t hien nhflng ngoi chua d Thach Lam chfnh la san p h l m cua qua tr inh giao thoa van hda xudi ngflgc, chflng minh sfl cd mat cua ngfldi Kinh d •vflng nay. Cac chfla d Cao B ing tap t rung chu yeu d chau Thach Lam, vdi 11 den, 3 mieu, 4 chfla dfldc xay dflng dfldi thdi phong kien, tieu bieu chua Vien Minh, chua Do'ng Lan, chua Giang Dgng, den Vua Le, den Ky S im. . . H l u het cac den, chfla nay deu dfldc ban danh rieng khu rugng ggi 56 Rghien curu Ljeh sir. s6 4.2Q1Q la rugng den, rugng chfla, san pham de phuc vu •vigc cung te, td chflc le hgi. Rugng dd dfldc giao cho mgt so' gia dinh hoac mgt hg trong ban cay ciy, truyen tfl ddi nay sang ddi khac. Nam 1803, sau khi len ngdi, vua Gia Long da cho sfla sang va cham lo •viec thd cung cac den mieu cua nha Le, trong dd cd mieu Le Thai To (den Vua Le) d phfldng Na Lfl. Theo dd, trieu dinh cho liy 56 ngfldi dan cua phfldng Na Lfl sung vao lam phuc dich cho den (41). San phlm hoa ldi do hg iam ra se dfldc nop cho den de lo vigc cung te hang nam cung nhfl •viec td chflc Ii hgi. Sau nay, rugng den dfldc giao cho hg Pham canh tac (42). Hay d chua Giang Dgng thugc xa Nhflgng Ban (nay la Hdng Viet, Hda An), ddng hg Ma truyen ddi trdng nom va dfldc cay ciy rugng cua chfla de lo Ii vat cung te (43). Dd chfnh la cd sd kinh te gdp phln cung co' thfldng xuyen cac sinh hoat cgng ddng cua dan ban. Trong so'nhflng ngoi chfla tren, hign nay chi cdn chua Giang Dgng gifl lai dfldc nhieu tflgng thd, chan den, bat hfldng tfl diu the ky XIX, tham chf la sdm hdn. Dfla vao so' tfldng hien cdn va ldi ke cua cu ba Ma Thi La, chung ta cd the tai hien lai each bd' trf ban thd xfla. Tren be cao nhit , cd ngai may, trong dat mgt pho tfldng da nhd cd hinh hai ngfldi dm nhau (hien nay da mit, chi cdn ngai may) dfldc thd theo truyen thuyet cua dia phfldng. Be ldn thfl hai thd tam pho tfldng Phat nhd bing gd, cao khoang 40cm, trong dd cd 6 pho tfldng Phat Tam The, hai pho tfldng cdn lai cd hinh Van Thfl Bd Tat va Phd Hien Bd Tat, la hien than ve trf tug va dflc hanh cua Phat. Be ldn thfl ba dat nam pho tfldng Dao giao iam bing dit, hien chi cd tfldng Ngge Hoang la h lu nhfl cdn nguyen vgn. Ven hai vach la nhieu tfldng nhd, trong dd cd tfldng Tam phu cong ddng va tfldng Mg Piit. Ban thd Me Pflt dfldc dat d hai ben gian hau cung, ndi thd Mlu. Tfldng cd hinh dang mgt ba me be con. Day la ndi ma ngfldi dan dia phfldng hay den iam Ii ciu tfl hoac khi con cai o'm dau, khd nuoi. Chfla Giang Dgng (De Dodng) la sii hda hdp cfla Phat giao, Dao giao, thd Miu, thd vat hnh... gio'ng nhfl mgt so' ngoi chfla ma ta thfldng thiy nhUng nd mang tfnh dia phUdng ro n6t, the hien qua tUdng Mg Put (Put la nfl thly Cling chi cd d ngfldi Tay - Niing). Hinh anh Me Pflt hoac Mg Hoa (Me Bjodc) cd ta'm long nhan ai, tfl bi hi xa, cflu do chiing sinh cua ngfldi Tay cung chfnh la Phat Ba Quan Am cua ngfldi Kinh. Ngfldi Tay - Nflng d Thach hiha cd r i t nhieu le hgi nhfl hgi long tdng (hgi xuo'ng ddng) thd th in ndng, hgi chd (Hang Toan)... mang tfnh chit ban dia, cdn hgi chfla la mgt hinh thflc Ii hgi dfldc tiep thu tfl ngfldi Viet, dfldc td chflc lien tuc vao thang Gieng am lich - thang Hgi xuan cua ngfldi Tay - Nflng. Md dlu mfla Ii hgi •vflng Thach Lam la hgi den Vua Le d Na Lfl ngay mdng 6, hgi den Dong Lan mdng 7, hgi chua Vien Minh mdng 8, hgi chfla Giang Dgng mdng 9 va hgi den Ky Sim mdng 10. Li hgi la ndi giao lflu gap gd cua cfl dan trong •vflng Thach Lam ndi chung va Cao Bing ndi rieng. Hg dfldc tham gia vao nhflng trd ehdi dan gian nhfl tung cdn, danh du, danh cd, hat dd'i... Di ehdi hgi da trd thanh mgt nhu ciu cua nhan dan, qua dd the hien tfnh "md" cua lang ban. Dan ban khong chi tham gia hgi d ban minh ma cdn tham gia d cac ban khac, va luon ddn tie'p ndng hau nhflng vi khach la tfl ndi khac den, ke ca chfla quen biet. Sach Cao Bdng sii tich dfldc •viet vao the ky XIX da mieu ta le hgi chfla Vien Minh nhfl sau: "Hang nam cfl den mdng 8 thang Gieng ta't ca gia tre mgt xfl deu hgp tap d da'y. Nhflng ngfldi lai buon d da't Thanh cung dong nhfl hgp chd. Vai n a vd chau Thach Lam... 57 Quan tinh cflng den lam le bai yet. Ngay hom ay Ii vat den hfldng, khdng biet bao nhieu ma ke, hoac cd bay ra cac trd ehdi nhfl danh cd danh bac, budi chieu thi con giai con gai tifng dan tflng lu, mdi lu fldc 4-8-9 ngfldi, chia ra tflng doi dem nhau xuo'ng rugng ngdi ndi chuygn, n6m qua ciu, hat doi dap. Den tdi d i t nhau vao trong lang sd ngu trg. Ngay hom a'y trong lang ngfldi nao mdi dfldc nhieu khach den nha ngu trg thi la ngfldi td't, cung flng an ud'ng r i t la tfl te ma chu nhan khong chiu l iy tien. (Hom i y cd nha phai md ldn mdi du dai Idiach)" (44). Do dd, I i hgi, du hgi den chua, hgi e lu mfla hay hgi chd deu trd thanh mei day hen hg, g i n ket cgng ddng cfl dan tfl pham •vi hgp (mgt ban) den pham •vi rgng ldn hdn (mgt vumg, mgt xfl gdm nhieu ban). Qua dd, sfl giao thoa va tiep bien van hda gifla cac tgc ngfldi d Thach Lam ngay cang sau dam hdn. Nhfl vay, cac vua d i u trieu Nguyen da thong qua viec lap sd dinh, sd dien de quan ly kinh te, dan cfl chau Thach Lam ndi rieng, cac chau, huyen mien nui ndi chung mgt each chat che va triic tiep tdi t an ca'p xa. Sau dd, cac vua Nguyin, n h i t la Minh Menh da tien hanh cai each bg may hanh chfnh, dat "lflu quan" tdi t an c ip huyen n h i m han che quyen life cfla cac thd tfl d dia phfldng va t ang cfldng hieu life quan ly cua chfnh quyen t rung fldng. Song y dinh thflc hign chfnh sach "lflu quan" n h i m tflng bfldc loai trfl thd quan the tap tdn tai tfl nhieu the ky cua vua Minh Mgnh dfl cd than trgng, mem deo, chuyen tfl tho tfl, chau muc den thd quan, roi lflu quan van td ra chfla phfl hgp va da bi loai trfl. Cud'i cflng, cac vua ke •vi v i n phai bao lflu che do thd quan. Bg may quan ly c ip cd sd cua nha Nguyin d Thach Lam mang tinh tfl tri cao. Ben canh he thd'ng quan ly hanh chfnh cua nha nfldc v i n tdn ta i he thd'ng tfl quan cua dia phfldng, ma trong dd, quyen Iflc thflc te v i n thugc ve cac thd tfl. Ben canh nhflng chfnh sach quan ly ve mat chfnh tri - xa hgi, nha Nguyin cdn cd chfnh sach phat trien kinh te d Thach Lam nhfl d ly manh khai hoang, md rgng thdng thfldng tren dfldng bg... Dieu dd da gdp p h i n iam cho lang xa chau Thach Lam bien ddi ddng thdi theo hai xu hfldng trai ngfldc nhau; mgt la qua trinh ndng thdn hda trd lai cua mgt so' phd', phfldng da m i t d i n vai trd hch sfl, kinh te; va hai la sfl dd thi hda cua mgt so' xa, ban d khu •vflc cd dieu kien thuan ldi phat trien budn ban, giao lUu xudi ngUdc. CHU THICH (1). Quoc sfl quan trieu Nguyin. Dgi Nam nhdt thdng chi, tap IV. Nxb. ThuAn H6a, Hue, 1992, tr. 403-404. (2). Be Huynh. Cao Bang tgp chi nhat tap. Tu li?u Tha vi?n tinh Cao Bang, 1921, tr. 66. (3). Dgi Nam nhdt thdng chi, tap IV, sdd, tr. 403. (4). Ph^m An Phu. Cao Bang ki lUOc. Tki li?u Thu vi?n tinh Cao Bang, 1845, tr. 29. (5). Dam Thi Uyen. Huyen Qudng Hda (tinh Cao Bdng) tii khi thdnh lap den gida thi'ky XIX, hukn an Tien sT Lich sfl, 2000. Ma so: 5.03.15, tr. 132. (6). Nguyen HQu Cung. Cao Bdng thUc luc, Ban dich tai Vi$n Sfl hoc, 1810. tr. 48-49. (7). Mong To Trin, Cao Bang thd hien Hit phuang danh, ban sao chQ Nho do ong Mong Van Biit h xa Phong Chau, huy$n Trung Khanh cung ca'p, 1955, tr. 118. (8). Quoc sfl quan trieu Nguyen. Dgi Nam thUc luc, tap II. Nxb. Giao dt^c. Ha Noi, 2004, tr. 682. (9). Quoc sfl quan trieu Nguyen. Dgi Nam thUc luc, tap IV. Nxb. Giao due. Ha Noi, 2004, tr. 582. 5S Rghien curu Ljeh si!r. s6 4.2Q1Q (10). Emmanuel Poisson. Quan vd lgi d miin Bdc Viet Nam - mdt bp mdy hdnh chinh trUdc thd thdch (1802 - 1918), Nxb. Da Nang, 2006, tr. 99. (11). Du dia chi trong Nguyen Trdi todn tap, Nxb. Khoa hoc xa hgi. Ha Noi, 1976, tr. 240. (12). Vi^n Nghien cflu Han Nom. Tin lang xd Viet Nam ddu thi' ky XIX, Nxb. Khoa hoc xa hoi. Ha Noi, 1982, tr. 93-94. (13). Dong Khdnh dia dU chi, t^p 1. Nxb. The gidi. Ha Noi, 2003, tr. 666-667, 674-675, 681. (14). Le Quang Dinh. Hodng Vict nhdt thd'ng dU dia chi, Nxb. Thuan H6a, Hue, 2005, tr. 500-502. (15). Vli Minh HUdng, Nguyin Van Nguyen, Philippe Papin. Dia danh vd tdi lieu liiu trd vi lang xd Bdc Ky, Nxb. The gidi, 1999, tr. 167-208. (16).- Dgi Nam thUc luc, tkp II, sdd, tr. 754. (17). Trinh Nang Chung, Dao Quy Canh. Bdo cdo Khdo cd hpc Cao Bdng ndm 2003. Vi^n Khao co hoc, 2004, tr. 18. (18). Bia Din Vua Le, xa Hoang Tung, huyfn Hoa An, tinh Cao Bang. (19). Tu lieu Hdn Ndm din chiia Cao Bdng, tai lieu Bao tang Tdng hdp tinh Cao Bang. (20). Dia danh vd tdi lieu liiu trd vi Idng xd Bac/(Ty, sdd, tr. 167-195. (21). Gia pha ho Hoang cl Lam Sdn, xa Hong Vi?t, huyen Hoa An, Cao Bang do ong Hoang Trieu An cung ca'p. (22). Tu lieu ong Le Duy Ke, 82 tudi, x6m Na Giudng, xa Hong Vi^t, huy^n Hoa An, Cao Bang. (23). T r in Qudc VU(?ng. Cao Bang dUdi cdi nhin ddn gian vi sU giao thoa vdn hda Tdy - Viet, trong Vdn hoa ddn gian Cao Bdng, Hoi van ngh$ Cao Bang, 1993, tr. 55. (24). Dia bg phUdng Nd Ld, Gia Long 4, KH DB.130; Dia bg phudng Nd Ld, Minh Menh 21, KH: DB.131. Trung tam LUu trQ Qudc gia I. (25). Dia bg xd Hd Ddm, Gia Long 4, KH: DB180; Dia bg xd Hd Ddm, Minh Menh 21, KH: DB. 181. Trung tam LUu trfl Qudc gia I. (26). Dia bg xd Kim Gidp, Gia Long 4, KH: DB.141; Dia bg xd Kim Gidp, Minh Menh 21, KH: 142. Trung tam LUu trfl Qudc gia I. (27). Dia bg xd Xudn An, Gia Long 4, KH: DB.329; Dia bg xd Xudn An, Minh Menh 21, KH: DB.330. Trung tam LUu trfl Qudc gia I. (28). Dia bg xd Mgnh Tuyin, Gia Long 4, KH:DB. 254. Trung tam LUu trfl Qudc gia I. (29). Dia bg xd Gia Bang, Gia Long 4, KH: DB.172; Dia bg xd Gia Bdng, Minh Minh 21, KH: DB.173. Trung tam LUu trfl Qudc gia I. (30). Dia bg xd Phuc Ca, Gia Long 4, KH: DB.200. Trung tam LUu trii Qudc gia I. (31). Dia bg xd Cii Son, Minh Menh 21, KH: DB.165, Trung tam LUu trfl Qudc gia I. (32). Tu lieu do ong DUdng Mac Say, xa Minh Tam, huy$n Nguyen Binh cung ca'p (33). Dong Khdnh dia dUchi, tap 1, sdd, tr. 661. (34). Tin lang xd Viet Nam ddu thi' ky XIX (thudc cdc tinh tii Hd Tinh trd ra), sdd, tr. 95. (35). Hodng Viit nhdt thdng dU dia chi, add, tr. 500. (36). Hoang Thi Canh. Dong dao Tdy. Nxb. Vftn h6a Dan toe. Ha Noi, 1992, tr. 58. (37). Paul Marabail. La Haute region du Tonkin et officier colonial: Cercle de Cao Bdng (Vung cao Bac ky va vien chiic thuoc dia: hat Cao Bang), Paris, 1908, tr. 182. (38). Be Huynh, Cao Bang tgp chi nhdt tap, Thu vi$n Vi?n Dan toe hoc, KH: TLd 271, tr. 1-2. (39). T r i n Qudc Vuqfng, Cao Bang diidi cdi nhin ddn gian vi sU giao hda vdn hoa Tdy - Viet, trong Vdn hda ddn gian Cao Bang, Nxb. Hoi Van ngh? Cao Bang, 1993, tr. 59. (40). Cung v a n LUdc, Vdn bdn vd vdn td Ndm Tdy - Niing Cao Biing - thdnh tUu vdn hda ddn tdc trong lich sd, trong Vdn hda ddn gian Cao Bang, Nxb. Hoi v a n nghe Cao Bang, 1993, tr. 78. (41). Qudc sfl quan trieu Nguyin. Dgi Nam thdc luc, tap I. Nxb. Giao dvic, Ha Noi, 2004, tr. 574. (42). Tu li?u do ong Hoang Van Bach (75 tudi) thuoc lang Den - Hoang Tung - Hoa An cung ca'p (43) Tu lieu do ba Ma Thi La (71 tudi) cl De Do6ng, xa Hdng Vi^t, huy?n Hoa An cung ca'p. (44). Nguyen Dflc Nha. Cao Bdng sU tich, tai li^u Vi$n sfl hgc, 1897. KH: Dvb298.